Monday, April 27, 2015
Ramp season is here! I love hiking in the woods and picking wild foods. I have been teaching the kids to walk quietly through the woods so we can hear the lovely bird songs chirping all around us as we hunt for morels and ramps. On this particular hike we saw our first wild bluebird! I did not get a good photo, but the bluebird is really an enchanting bird to see in person. The blue color pops against the landscape compared to a blue jay. I can see why bird enthusiasts have built blue bird houses in an effort to preserve this beautiful bird.
Anyway, back to ramps. My general rule for ramps it to pick less than 1% of the ramps in a colony because ramps are very easily over picked and because I want to leave ramps for other people. Never pick and consumer wild foods unless you are 100% confident of the identity of the plant. For ramps, the scent is the most distinguishing characteristic. There are several plants that looks like long slender leaves poking up in early spring, but they will not have the distinguishing onion mixed with turnip smell when you pick off part of a leaf. When you are first learning about wild foods, I recommend you learn from someone experienced in wild foods in your area and use a field guide. I never pick ramps that have a flower on them. At this point, I want the ramps to release their seeds so we can enjoy ramps next year. Lastly, make sure that it is legal to pick wild foods where you are located. Some parks do not allow you to pick wild foods while some only allow you to pick for personal consumption while other only allow you to pick certain foods.
Most people pick the entire bulb, but you can see in my photos that I did not dig all the way down to get the full bulb because I forgot my knife on this particular hike.
Ramps have a very short season, so you might want to pick a few extra ramps for the cold winter months when greens are in short supply. Luckily, ramps freeze really well. I simply wash the ramps, dry well, then chop and freeze in a mason jar. I love ramps in my eggs. Happy harvesting!
Thursday, February 26, 2015
Seed swapping is a fun and frugal way to increase the diversity in your seed collection. Seed swapping is great if you are new to gardening and you are on a limited budget because you can buy a few packets of seeds and trade your way to a more diverse collection. Most seed packets come with more seeds than most small gardeners will realistically use before they start to decrease in germination.
I have had several wonderful experiences with seed swapping groups on Facebook. I have been able to swap seeds that I will not be using this year for seeds that interest me. I really like to use seed swapping when I want a small quantity of something to try out before I dedicate a large chunk of my garden space to something unknown.
Pictured above are some seeds that I got is some trades this year. I have traded for a lot of beans this year. I want to see how these various varieties grow in my garden before I plant a lot of them. Plus, the beans are really pretty! This year I have sent off seeds for cinnamon basil, green sausage tomato, baby corn bonus, and other seeds. Swapping smaller seeds costs me a stamp and a thank you card. Large seeds like corn, squash, beans, and peas cost me a padded envelope, a thank you card, and about $2.50 for postage. I usually swap multiple seeds with each person that I trade with to make trading more economical.
Here are some seed swapping groups that I am a part of on Facebook:
Edible Plants Preservation Society: This group doubles as a place where you can swap seeds and a seed bank where volunteers can grow out rare seeds for saving. This is my favorite seed swapping group on Facebook.
Seed Traders For Future Generations: This group sees a lot of daily activity as people post things they are growing in their gardens as well as trades.
Midwest Gardening and Seed Swap: I love this group because these are growers located in my region, so the odds are if they have a good experience with a seed, then I am likely going to have a good experience as well.
Seed Swap: This group is massive with people from all over the world (not just the US.) I have also seen people post bulbs for trade on this group as well.
Seed Swappers Paradise Group: This is another large seed swapping group.
The Trading Post: This group is strictly for trading seeds. Some groups will allow you to post gardening questions or show pictures of your garden for bragging rights, but this group is very narrowly focused. This group is great for people who want to spend a limited amount of time on Facebook.
Are you a part of any seed swapping groups on Facebook? If you are, then leave me a comment below! I would be more than happy to expand this list as I find new groups.
Tuesday, February 10, 2015
A lot of changes have occurred in my life that bring about new opportunities. I have bought my first house! I bought the perfect house for me. The house has a green house attached to the house, raised vegetable beds, several blueberry plants, several currant plants, a crab apple tree, and a ravine. There are lots of plants that I have not identified yet in my new yard because the yard has been covered in snow.
Forest gardening focuses on perennial plants grown in a polyculture. The emphasis is on useful plants that provide food, materials for hobbies, or beneficial to wildlife. A forest garden mimics a natural forest ecosystem with multiple layers from the tall canopy layer, smaller trees and bushes, vines crawling up large trees, herbs growing under everything and mushrooms breaking down decaying material. Ideally, a forest garden should be self-renewing and low maintenance through careful planning of plants that work together in a polyculture and choosing plants that do not require a lot of maintenance. I don't think I will be able to create a no work forest garden since I do like things like peaches that require yearly pruning. I envision my yard to produce an abundance of food and still be beautiful.
My first goal of the year is to inventory what is already in the yard. This is going to take me all year long to figure out all the bulbs that are in the front yard, but I should be able to identify the trees in the ravine sooner. The next step is to take very accurate measurements of my yard and beginning planning. I hope a lot of good planning and research on my part will help me avoid some mistakes, but forest gardening is still in its infancy. I look forward to this new adventure!
Tuesday, February 3, 2015
This year I am doing lots of tree shopping now that I own my first house! I get to transition from an annual gardener to a gardener that has perennial plants as well as annual plants. I am excited about this new phase in my gardening life. While researching nut trees that will work in my cold Midwest climate, I came across Arbor Day Foundation's Hazelnut Project. By joining The Arbor Day Foundation for $20, they will send you 3 hybrid hazel nut trees for free that will grow to 10 ft. The trees are being bred to have durable resistance to Eastern Filbert Blight and be cold and drought tolerant.
The downside is that you do not get to pick the varieties of hazelnut trees that you receive, but you will be aiding research being performed by the Hazelnut Consortium that includes the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Rutgers University, Oregon State University, and the Arbor Day Foundation. The long term goals of the research is to create new cultivators of hazelnuts for food, feed, and biofuel with a focus on sustainability.
Hybrid hazelnut trees dig strong deep roots that pull up nutrients from deep in the soil. If you have erosion problems in your yard, then hazelnut trees are an excellent choice especially if your slope leads to a water source such as a river or lake. Hazelnuts have been deemed by the USDA and Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) as a riparian buffer zone species meaning that they act a filter for aquatic environments preventing polluted run off and erosion. Hazelnut trees help prevent nitrogen leaching which will allow you to use less additives in your gardening.
The hazelnut lover in my loves the idea of growing my own hazel nuts. I can't wait to snack on some roasted hazelnuts in a few years! Do you plan to join me?
The photo above is licensed under GNU Free Documentation License. The authors of this photo are
Wednesday, January 21, 2015
Over the years my seed starting has gotten more sophisticated. I have used everything from little premade seed starting kits when I only needed a few plants to cups with soil and a grow light and now to racks with grow lights attached. As my garden has grown so has my seed starting ambitions. Starting your garden from seed is lot more economical than buying plants and I can have a larger selection of vegetables to grow in my garden.
My current set up is a metal rack that I got at Sams Club, but I have also seen them at Lowes. The rack is 4 ft long. The shop light fixtures are 4 ft long as well with florescent grow lights installed. I got the grow lights at Mendards, but Home Depot also sells them. The lights are attached on with cable ties that you can get at any hardware store. As the plants grew I tightened the cable ties so the lights would rise up. You could also use a chain and hooks. I got my flats and cell inserts from Growers Supply. Growers Supply had the best bulk prices and their customer service was fantastic. I would recommend them to anyone who needs bulk seed starting supplies. The shelves can fit 4 flats on them. The flats do hang over the shelf a bit, but I have never had any trouble with the flats hanging over the edge a bit. I underwater the plants (meaning I put the water in the flat under the cells.) I have found this to be most efficient method for watering the plants. I do use the floor as one of my shelves so I can get a full six shelves worth of plants started at once. The top shelf is usually used for storage of any extra supplies that I have on hand.
I still use the same seed starting mix that I have used in the past. The mix still works well after all of these years, so I do not see the need to change things up when nothing is broken. I do not cover most of my seeds with plastic anymore. In the past, I always covered my plants with plastic to increase the humidity, but I no longer do this because I had some trouble with damping off, a catch all term for fungal diseases that little sprouts are susceptible to during the beginning stages of life. The only cells that I cover now are the ones with plants that take a long time to germinate. I have found when I set up a large system like the one pictured above that the humidity of the room increases just because of all the plants in the room.
I hope this photo has inspired you to build your own seed starting rig in your house. None of the links above are affiliate links. I am not affiliated with any of the links above. I have had a lot of questions on how I set up my seed starting racks and where I got the supplies from, so I linked up to places where you can purchase supplies for this project.
Tuesday, October 14, 2014
parts of a mushroom. This video shows how to identify King of Stropharia mushrooms in your patch, as well, for those that prefer video.
Wine cap mushrooms must be eaten cooked. The first time you try the mushroom, try just a small piece because a small percentage of the population can have a terrible reaction to the mushroom. I liked the mushrooms sauteed with a little olive oil. They make great pizza toppings. You can freeze the mushrooms by sauteing then flash freezing on a cookie sheet. Once the mushroom pieces are frozen, you can move them to another container for longer term storage. The flavor and texture remind me a lot of portobello mushrooms, mild and a bit earthy and a touch chewy. The mushrooms are a bit delicate to clean, so you do not want to put them under running water. To clean my mushrooms I brush off any dirt with my fingers or a small paint brush.
You can build a mushroom patch in fall or spring, but you want to make sure your patch has plenty of time to establish itself before the ground starts freezing. I set up my mushroom patch after all danger of frost had past in Spring.
The perfect spot for you mushroom patch is:
1. In a shady location. Your mushroom patch does not want to be in direct contact with the sun.
2. In a humid location with access to water. Our deck gets enough rain water that drizzle down in between the wood plants to make my patch happy and productive.
3. Not in a windy location.
4. A place that you visit frequently but do not walk upon. You do not want to accidentally crush young mushrooms.
How to set up your mushroom patch:
1. Remove any vegetation from your mushroom patch. Wine Cap Mushrooms do not like to grow with plants.
2. Lay down a nice 2 inch layer of hardwood chips. Make sure that the wood chips are not sprayed or colored with anything. I used a mixture of sizes from chunks to small pieces.
3. Water the hardwood chips. Make sure all the chips get moist.
4. Spread the damp inoculate all over the wood chips.
5. Add another layer of wood chips and water again.
6. Water your patch every few days if you are not getting enough rain. I live in zone 5a, and I did not water my patch at all this spring or summer. However, we had a very rainy and cool summer.
How to know if your inoculate worked:
After a few weeks, lift up some of the top layer of the wood chips. It should look like little white strings are running all over the wood chips.
In 4-12 months you will get mushrooms!
Do you grow mushrooms? If you do, tell me about your experience.
Where to buy King of Stropharia spawn (spawn is any substance inoculated with mycelium):
Field and Forest Products
Bountiful Gardens (this where I bought my spawn)
Tuesday, August 19, 2014
This is a sponsored post from SweetPreservation.com which is a community-oriented endeavor of the Northwest cherry growers and soft fruit growers of Washington state aimed at promoting home preservation of Northwest grown stone fruits.
SweetPreservation.com is a great website canning recipes, information on the health benefits of stone fruits, and tips on buying the buying the perfect fruit. One of my favorite features on the site is a preservation party page with music suggestions for a canning party and a page full of canning jar labels to help you keep your jars labeled and organized.
Locally we had another year of scarce peaches which bums me out, but we still have a beautiful Washington peaches to fall back on when local crops fail. The peaches I received from Washington were gorgeous. Each peach cut up produced approximately 1 cup of cut up peaches. These peaches were sweet, juicy, and delicious. They were free stone peaches, so they fell off the pit easily.
This year I decided to make a jelly from the peaches using some rosemary and white wine that I had on hand for a unique combination that you can never find in the grocery store jelly section. The jelly turned out to be a beautiful tangerine color because I decided to keep the peels on the fruit to speed up the jelly making process. The rosemary added some nice piney undertones to the jelly that was unexpected and delicious. The dry white wine complimented the sweet peach flavor perfectly. This jelly is perfect on an English muffin.
Ingredients makes 6 pints
10 cups (1800 g) of peaches cut into chunks (about 10 peaches)
6 cups water
2 sprigs rosemary
6 tbsp bottled lemon juice
7 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup dry white wine
8 tbsp powdered pectin
1. Place the peaches, water, and rosemary in a large sauce pot. Bring the pot to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes. The fruit should be soft and fall apart easily.
2. Strain the fruit and rosemary out of the juice. You can do this with a jelly bag found at the grocery store canning section or with a fine mesh sieve and cheese cloth.
3. Add the juice, lemon juice, and pectin to a clean large sauce pot. Bring the mixture to a boil while stirring. Add the sugar to the mixture while stirring. Boil hard for 1 minute. Add the white wine and boil hard again for 1 minute.
4. Ladle the jelly into hot, sterile jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace.
5. Adjust two piece caps until finger tip tight.
6. Process in a boiling water caner for 10 minutes for half pints and 15 minutes for pint jars.